Nechung Temple:

One of the most striking sights at Nechung Temple is Oracle’s ceremonial costume. Weighing over 30 kg (70 pounds), it’s a masterpiece of tradition: layers of fabric under a golden robe, a large round mirror (adorned with precious stones) on the chest, and a towering structure holding flags and banners. Assistants help the monk put it on—he can barely stand under its weight until he enters a trance. Once possessed, he holds a heavy helmet and performs dances and deep bows that seem impossible for someone in such a bulky outfit. You’ll see this costume depicted in the temple’s paintings and sculptures, where the protector is often shown in a wrathful form (though there’s also a peaceful statue on the first floor).

Nechung Temple itself is a gem—smaller than Drepung but rich in charm and spirituality. Here’s what not to miss:

Start here, where locals burn juniper incense and murals depict Pehar’s various forms. Before entering, you’ll see Tibetans buying barley beer—they offer it (along with black tea and milk) in the protector’s chapels to honor the spirits. Don’t be surprised by the red temple doors, painted with images of human and animal skins, they’re part of the temple’s traditional decoration.

Head inside to find two statues of Nechung Protector (peaceful and wrathful) and the temple’s most sacred relic: a tree stump. Legend says Pehar was once trapped in a box thrown into the Lhasa River. Drepung monks freed him, and he turned into a dove, taking refuge in this tree—now the stump is a symbol of his presence. There’s also an audience chamber where the Dalai Lama once consulted the Oracle.

Climb up for a large balcony with stunning views of the courtyard and Drepung Monastery perched on the nearby mountain. Inside, the audience room features the Dalai Lama’s throne, flanked by statues of Tsongkhapa (founder of the Gelug tradition), the Fifth Dalai Lama, Shakyamuni Buddha, and Chenresig (the Buddha of Compassion). Even though Nechung follows the Nyingma tradition of Tibetan Buddhism, its monks study Gelug texts—another link to Drepung.

Dedicated to Padma Sambhava (Guru Rinpoche), the founder of Tibetan Buddhism. His statue is the centerpiece here, surrounded by smaller figures and thangkas (sacred scroll paintings).